Dilip Kaul
On my last visit to Kashmir, I had kept a day aside especially for religious places. Had been feeling for long that I need to know more about the history and culture of this beautiful land. Hence, I decided to visit the beautiful ‘Dastageer Sahib' a 200-year old Shrine situated in Khanyar, a locality in downtown Srinagar.
Reached there after mid-day amongst the hustle and bustle of people in and around the Shrine. As soon as I was about to enter the door of the Dastageer Sahib, I searched for the box which has those stoles people use to cover their heads but couldn't find any. I asked the man sitting at the entrance as to where the stoles would be. He said they didn't have one here (they did at Jamia Masjid). I was about to go back thinking I would buy one from the market outside and come back that I saw many women sitting in the porch along with kids and some men too. I thought why buy one, maybe I should just borrow one and go inside and return it back on my way out.
Looking at all the women, I decided to ask the oldest one sitting there whether I could have her stole for a few minutes. I thought the older one would understand and be more liberal. As I approached her, she looked at me suspiciously. No smile on face. I asked her if I may use her stole and go inside for a few minutes. She was shocked at the suggestion. She began speaking something in her language and finally said in Hindi / Urdu, “Are you crazy? If I give you my stole, what will I use to cover my hear?”. I apologised and turned around thinking it would be better to buy one.
As I began walking, I heard a voice call me out. I turned and saw a very beautiful, fair complexioned, young girl hardly 20 years old I guess, smile at me and gestured for me to come closer. I walked up to her and she asked, “Aapko Ziyarat karne jaana andar. Aap jayiye”. I had never heard the word ‘Ziyarat' (It meant, to view / visit the tomb inside which I googled later for understanding). I replied, “I want to see what is there inside”. She took off her stole from her head and asked me to take it and go. I couldn't help giving her a broad smile and thanked her profusely.
I went inside and stood there for sometime observing what people were doing. I saw a tomb and some women sitting and praying by its side. I also saw a beautiful room (photo in post) that I felt should be clicked. I asked someone if I could take a photo and they said I may. I took a few and then walked upto that beautiful room where a few men were praying. As I kneeled down to click the photo, I heard some man shouting, “Iska dimaag kharaab hai kya?” which meant “Is her brain working or not”. I looked around to see who he had said that too and realized he was talking to me. OMG. I was just thinking what was wrong that he gestured me to go out of that place. I got up and suddenly another guy stood up and took me to the ladies section. Only then I realized that there were two separate sections. There was no door or sign in between so I never knew I wasn't supposed to go to the men's section.
That guy who had shouted at me was very rough but the one who took me to the other side was extremely polite. I apologized multiple times saying I had no idea that its off-limits to women, but he sat me down and said there is no need to be sorry. He even said, “How could you have known? That guy who shouted must have fought with his wife before coming here”. I immediately relaxed and smiled. He asked me many questions about me and I asked him many about Dastageer Sahib. We chatted for almost 7-8 mins. I asked him if he could go that side and click a photo for me. He said he would love to. I handed him my phone and he clicked a few and came back. Asked me to check if they were ok. I looked at them and found that either the chandelier on top wasn't in the frame or the floor was cut in half. I wanted both. I asked him if he could try once again and get them both. He did so. But still he couldn't get both. When he came out the second time and asked me to check, I said they are good. But I guess somehow he must have seen I wasn't that enthusiastic about it. He himself offered to try again. I sheepishly agreed knowing I was taking undue advantage of his generosity but thought who knows if / when I visit again. Third time he came out with this lovely shot that I liked a lot. I thanked him as I remembered that I was wearing someone else's stole and should go out and return it. As I took that guy's leave, he smiled and said, “keep visiting Kashmir and tell people its safe”. I assured him that I would do that.
I came out and saw that young girl was waiting along with her friend and had covered her head with the side of the stole of her friend. Both of them were looking so cute snuggled under one stole. I wish I could have taken their photograph but didn't think it was appropriate. As I took off the stole and handed it back to her, I had no words to thank her for being kind. I just folded my hands and told her that I was utterly grateful. She held my hands and said, “please don't thank me like this. Only a human can help another human. I'm glad you got to visit the Shrine”.
I was taken aback by her warmth and smile and can never forget her face. God bless such kind souls in this world! I still smile warmly remembering my experience at Dastageer Sahib!
(The author is a freelance writer. He had been writing since his College day and he was editing his College and University Magazine etc.)
